May
Basic Skincare Steps: Tone
Introduction
Way back when I was a little girl…about 20 years ago, toners were something put on a cotton pad and spread on the face used to clean the face to remove dirt and makeup. Now, toners are often advertised as items to refresh the face, mists to hydrate your skin and often infused with active ingredients for exfoliation, brightening and soothing effects.
Toners are most often are in the form of liquids but there are some out there that are of a gel or lotion consistency. Toning is most often part of a skincare routine, done after cleansing but before moisturizing, and these days they are made with different purposes to tackle different conditions and give different effects depending on the type and ingredients used in the toner. There are different opinions out there on whether using a toner is necessary or not, but regardless of which side, it is undeniable that toners can have numerous benefits and can give that extra oomph in your ritual.
What are toners?
Toners have been around for a very long time! Since the early 1900s, tonic waters or skin tonics generally made of perfumed water, alcohol, tincture of benzoin and borax were popular and were believed to soothe the nerves, refresh skin, stimulate blood circulation and close pores (although now we know that pores do not open or close). It further evolved and were popularly known as toners with the purpose to restore the skin’s pH balance as cleansers back then were often formulated with lye which is highly alkaline and super harsh on the skin. Skin needed to be rebalanced to come back down it its normal pH of a little below 5 (slightly acidic) because higher pH lead to problems such as dryness, irritation and breakouts. They were also made as a second cleanse step where they removed the remaining cleanser as the cleansers would leave a filmy residue as well as remaining makeup. Other uses of toners of the past were to remove excess oil and were advertised to those with acne prone and oily skin. They were high in alcohol and have a relatively high amount of astringents in them. They were very stripping and drying.
Fast forward to today, cleansers have come a long way and are now much better formulated and more gentle with minimal disruption to the skin barrier as they are pH balanced. They are not as irritating or drying as they were before thus, eliminating the need to normalize or restore the skin’s pH balance. Furthermore, nowadays if you need a toner to remove what your cleanser hasn’t cleaned, then your cleanser isn’t doing its job. So, addressing the issue of rebalancing skin pH and further cleansing is no longer necessary. However, this does not mean that toners are useless and that we should totally forget about them!
Toners nowadays have a different function compared to toners of the past. From adding hydration, enhancing absorption of following products, exfoliation, brightening, soothing, the purpose of using toners may seem endless! There’s a wide range of variety out there catering to different skin types, conditions and with different effects. Generally, toners can be used day and night after cleansing before moisturizing. Toners also preps the skin for other steps, it dampens the skin so that it can readily absorb rest of products more effectively and efficiently. Although some say toners are unnecessary, they can still provide so many benefits and can be useful and be a great addition to a solid skincare routine! Many out there swear by toners and have them permanently fixed in their skincare routine.
Different types of toners: Hydrating, Exfoliating & Treatment
There are so many different toners out there catering to different needs and wants. They can loosely be put in three main categories: hydrating toners, exfoliating toners and treatment toners.
Hydrating toners contain humectants that hold onto water, they attract water molecules from the air to your skin and soak your skin with hydration. Common humectants are glycerin, hyaluronic acid, rosewater and aloe. Hydration is key to plump, dewy, healthy, glowy, younger looking skin. Hydrating toners are great for everyone but especially beneficial to remedy those with dry or dehydrated skin to add that extra layer of hydration. The can also help penetration of active ingredients as they soak the top layer of skin, increasing skin permeability.
Exfoliating toners contain acids such as AHAs (eg. glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid) BHAs (eg. Salicylic acid) and PHA’s (gluconolactone). Quick explanantion: AHAs are water soluble acids that help peel away the surface of your skin so new skin can take their place. BHAs are oil soluble acids and can get in deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and sebum. PHAs are second generation AHAs and have larger molecules thus do not penetrate the skin as deep and is usually meant for those with sensitive skin. In a toner format, these acids are usually of a low concentration and are meant to gently exfoliate the skin to remove dead skin cells leaving skin smoother and glowy. At the same time, they help minimize dark spots improving overall skin tone and texture. Usually, these types of toner will include hydrating ingredients such as glycerin to balance out the exfoliation effects. Regular exfoliation will help keep skin bright, clear pores of dirt and built up sebum.
Treatment toners have specific targets and there are so many different types out there targeting: anti-aging, brightening, help with hyperpigmentation, anti-acne, soothe inflammation. They contain active ingredients to address skin concerns, some popular examples are: such as vitamin C (antioxidant, stimulates collagen and elastin for firmer skin, skin brightening), vitamin E (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, helps prevent premature aging), niacinamide (fight inflammation, reduce redness and irritation, plumps skin), Ceramides (restore hydration and moisture), Peptides (increase production of collagen).
Old fashioned toners such as clarifying or astringent toners are still around but are becoming less and less popular. They’re high in alcohol content and are extremely drying. Alcohols act as the opposite of humectants and speeds up evaporation causing dryness. Those with oily skin may like using these because they dry up oil temporarily but be aware that drying up oils encourage more oil production. These toners often claim to reduce oil, pore size and to refresh skin but may instead cause tight, flaky, painful skin.
This is not saying that toners must fit into a specific category! Some fit into more than one category, perhaps even all three! And may even offer different formulations for different skin types and skin conditions so toners cannot be categorized into only the above.
How to use toners
Toners are usually used after you cleanse, but some also like to use toners in between every step of a skincare routine (for example after cleansing and after serum) because it keeps the skin damp and moist. When skin is damp it is most permeable and will allow penetration of the following products to become more effective and efficient. It will allow the active ingredients to get to where they need to be to impart their benefits. For some, this method is excessive not only in number of steps but also the amount of product used on face. It’s just a matter of choice and preference.
Application of toner can be done in different ways with a cotton rounds, patted onto face with hands, sprayed on face using a mist bottle. Again, this might depend on the type of toner and preference. Personally, I do not like using cotton pads as it soaks up most of the product and I’d have to purchase cotton rounds or balls which costs money, but I know some who enjoy soaking cotton rounds with a toner and leaving it on their face for a few minutes, like using a sheet mask. Some enjoy spraying toners throughout the day for that light fresh feeling.
Some toners need to be approached with a little care, exfoliating toners for example, you might have to do a little trial and error, trying how often you put it on and if it has any negative effects on your skin. Twice a day might be too much, as you do not want to over-exfoliate. It all depends on the formulation and your skin sensitivity, hence the need for trial and error.
Toners are generally not a standalone product, they are used in a routine that is finished off with a moisturizer to seal all the hydration and benefits in, so it doesn’t just dissipate away. Some may be advertised as a miracle product that can solve all sorts of skin problems but just remember, without locking it in with a moisturizer and using a sunscreen if you’re exposed to the sun, it might not quite be miraculous as it claims to be.
Final Note
Toners can be a great addition to a skincare routine as they can have very good ingredients, be excellently formulated and benefit your skin. If your skin LOVES toners, that’s fab! Please continue using it! Although toner isn’t a necessity for me, I do use it frequently to supplement my basic routine because often, I want extra hydration, or I just enjoy the whole experience of using a toner and patting it down, it is something that is quite relaxing.
When selecting products for your skin make sure to keep skin type and conditions that you have in mind so you can make the best decision. Factors such as overall experience, how it feels, the scent, how fast it absorbs, active ingredients it contains, and budget might be taken into consideration when deciding on a purchase. Be aware to look at the ingredients list of a toner that you want to use to ensure that you’re not merely putting on fragranced water on your skin that has no added benefits! Be aware that they may contain ingredients such as drying alcohols or essential oils that may be irritating to those with sensitive skin.
There are just so many toners out there you can explore, catering to all sorts of skin types and conditions and containing a variety of active ingredients. If you’re seeking organic options, do check out Eva Purity’s organic glow toner and youthful toner at these links https://evapurity.com/product/glow-toner/ and https://evapurity.com/product/youth-toner/
Much Love,
Fathin A.
